AW20 fashion weeks around the globe were full of 2020’s new, innovative and fashion-forward. Let’s rewind and reminisce over the glorious fashion of the AW20 season.
Simone Rocha‘s collection centered around opulence, grandeur and purity. Bold mixtures of print, colour and texture gave us a polished edge that anyone could add to their wardrobe. The construction of garments is key in her collection, creating beautiful silhouettes. I noticed that a lot of tulle and silk would be constructed in an unorthodox manner – but it works and gives the pieces a rebellious vibe. This theme runs throughout the collection. Makeup was kept minimal, though when used, it was focused on the eyes in a statement red or black.
Against the backdrop of synth-pop, Richard Quinn’s models head out on the runway in what can only be described as fantastically wild garments. His collection was made up of daring fabric combinations and design elements. The best of example of this: bejewelled dogtooth apparel and tight latex head coverings teamed with soft floral prints…The shock. My favourite pieces were well-structured and corseted with matching prints of the garments and hosiery. The playful energy of the collection carries its voice with what can only be described as ‘sheer spunk‘.
Preen (Justin Thorton & The Bregazzi)
Preen showcased a fashion-forward take on British heritage. Throughout various pieces traditional knit and leather (atypical of British Heritage) were sported on the catwalk. Gold was heavily featured from turtlenecks to facial decorations, accompanied with the recurring appearance of gold & black thigh highs. Different materials that typically aren’t paired together, created a joyful fusion of the classic and the futuristic. Not only is the collection visually impressive, but it was also created sustainably.
Balmain’s collection has proven that winter wear doesn’t have to be lack-lustre and solely functional. The balance of functionality and aesthetic is what makes this a stand-out collection. Delicately embroidered knits and winter-fit tailoring are undoubtedly the highlights of their AW20 collection. The wearability is something that stood out to me, and I could definitely see myself walking down the street in any one of the pieces.
Off-White put forward their Sunday Best, a sleek, fashion-forward version of ‘cool’. Elements of streetwear were dotted throughout the collection from bright colours to chain pieces, and combat print paired with tulle. Off-White have managed to create a collection for the ‘cool kids‘ – it has universal appeal.
Dries Van Noten
Rich fabrics and prints defined Dries Van Noten’s collection. Irrespective of the use of embroidered fabrics, the collection managed to convey a cool subtleness. The hues of jewel green and blue contrasted well with dark leathers and rich silks. Despite the use of typical cooler colours, the collection reverse engineers this and creates its own unique personality. Models wore dark make-up and had neon roots for the show.
Green, black and tassels were the signatures that appeared throughout Bottega Veneta’s collection. The styling was well-executed; there was always a detail/aspect of each piece that caught my eye, be it a tassel dress or sequinned trouser etc. This collection had menswear included as well which was interesting to see. Pieces were designed and styled in a genderless way.
Jil Sander AW20 poised more elegant, monochromatic looks with superb tailoring. My favourite thing about the collection was the sheer elegance and ability to convey this in a minimalist way. Constructing fabrics in unconventional ways e.g. playing with silhouettes and lengths, created sleek yet subtle pieces. The makeup was kept simple, but a classic red lip could be seen on various models.
Fendi breathes new life into winter knits and outerwear by creating interesting shapes through the designs. I noticed that the sleeves on coats and knitwear hung just over the shoulder. The deconstruction created interesting looks when paired with similar pieces e.g. asymmetric dresses and skirts. This was something I really enjoyed about this collection.
Known for her sophisticated fashion, Carolina Herrera brought her sensibilities to the catwalk. Rich construction was combined with high-end fabrics such as chiffon and velvet. Her dresses stole the spotlight showcasing a myriad of styles all whilst keeping to a theme of nu-elegance.
The future of fashion is becoming more diverse and fresh, and NYFW kicked it off with Tia Adeola’s collection. The collection was inspired by her Nigerian heritage and the Renaissance era. Ruffles were a signature feature throughout her garments. She also experimented with organza, sequins and 1920’s brows. What I loved about this collection were the concepts behind it; she managed to convey her ideas concisely throughout the various pieces.
Christopher John Rogers
Christopher John Rogers lit up the runway with an 80s ballroom inspired collection. A variety of styles were shown all keeping to the theme, from power-dress led tailoring to larger than life gowns and androgynous fits. The joyfulness and personality of the collection could really be seen through its diversity, use of colour and fabric choices.
*Seoul Fashion Week has been cancelled*
Fashion weeks from London to Paris and New York all showcased an eclectic array of garments that conveyed the personality of the designers all whilst making winter wear more than just functional pieces. Autumn and Winter fashion has never looked so chic.
Words By Louise Worthington
Disclaimer – All images within this article are sourced from Vogue Runway. Ragged Culture Publishing Ltd. does not own copyright of images featured in this article. All rights reserved.