Our ‘Ones To Watch’ kicks off with the work of Chinese designer – Shie Lyu. She has lived in Sydney, Tokyo, New York and London, her identity and designs highly inspired by her discoveries and experiences developed from her 12 years of travelling. Prior to her design career, Lyu worked in finance and accounting, her creations sprouting inspiration from surrounding structures, resulting in mathematical calculation within her silhouettes. Her label is renowned for its use of unconventional material such as moulded perspex, and heat shrunk rubber and tubing. Her contrast to the haute couture techniques also consistently includes embroidery and beading. Lyu pays homage to the work of Bauhaus artist – Moholy Nagy, and the clear correlation is obvious in both their uses of formula and technical measurement. Needless to say, Lyu’s recent AW19 collection is jam-packed full of ethereal, artistic designs – the amount of detail injected into each individual piece is undeniable. She includes a peculiar contrast of workwear with lingerie. Noted are structural suit jackets and beaded bottoms, somehow working together to compliment one another.
Lyu explores extensions of the human form, and how she can play with structure in an alternate manner in this collection. Large, beaded numerical nets were incorporated into the corporate style. Feminine sheer materials such as lace were juxtaposed against bright pops of pastel colours. Placed onto corsets and overskirts, the constructions create a romantic, yet still exciting effect, which gives us a different insight into how simple fabrics can be manipulated into exhilarating visions. The accessories also completed each look wholly. Eyewear is embellished with beaded chains, headwear and garters are seen complimenting the netting reinforcing the theme of femininity.
The finale piece is simply phenomenal. Towards the end of the collection Lyu slowly introduces more injections of colour such as lime greens and soft blues, which leads up to the finale dress – pattern and colour interchanges onto the structural fabric. It features an exposed baby blue bralette, partly hidden by a sturdy piece of fabric extending from the sleeves and up to the neckline. The skirt billowed around the model’s lower leg. The influx of colour at first overwhelms the audience in comparison to the softer garments found within the collection. She took a definitive risk through the hyper-progression of colour and style used throughout a singular collection, but undoubtedly her confidence paid off – an anticipation to what is next to come from the charismatic designer.
Lyu‘s introduction of empowering pieces keeps a romantic aesthetic well-executed through her constant transition of colour and structure. Every piece within her AW19 collection brings something new and fresh, which keeps classic elements of fashion whilst modernising it.
Words By Ava Frances J
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